Recommended by the Footprint India Travel Guide 2010

Havelock Island

Havelock is a 65 square kilometre island located in Ritchie's Archipelago, about 50 kms north east of Port Blair. 60% of the island is reserved tropical forest, with the remainder under agricultural, commercial and residential development. This is the only developed island for tourism outside of Port Blair. The population across 4 village communities is approximately 7,000 people. The island subsists on agriculture, subsistence fishing and tourism. Travellers arrive by ferry at the pier on Beach 1 (all beaches are numbered based on former timber logging camps) where there is a small market with a few shops and Barefoot's new lounge and restaurant. No. 3 is the main market for Havelock - here is where the shack restaurants churn out delicious grilled fish, hot curries, and sweet syrupy jalebis with your tea. There is an interesting vegetable market with all kinds of local greens (ask for japani dhaniya - thats Japanese coriander, you will be inspired!). The sea food market is also an interesting place to visit to see whats coming in off the ocean. At the number 3 market, the road splits - one goes along the north and east coast and the other goes further south inland until it reaches Beach No. 7 on the western coast.

The east coast road runs along Beach No. 3 to 6 and this is where most of Havelock's buzz is - small backpacker hideaways, mid-size beach resorts, cafes, and the scuba diving centres (including Barefoot Scuba at Beach No. 3). There are a few good places to eat including Cafe Del Mar (Barefoot Scuba) at Beach No. 3; the Red Snapper (Wild Orchid Resort, Beach No. 5) and the Emerald Gecko Restaurant. Once you are past the development, the road turns sharply south hugging a pristine aquamarine ocean (unfortunately not good for swimming, because of rocks and an ankle deep lagoon) till you reach the elephant camp at Kala Pathar (Black Rocks). This is a good place to watch the elephants of the Forest Department.

The road to Beach No. 7 runs through paddy fields, banana plantations, and small homesteads with little flower gardens. Its a delightfully windy rural road that turns a corner and bursts upon Beach No. 7 and its stunning ocean view. Here there are some shacks by the roadside turning out great omelettes and fish in a variety of forms. All along the beach are the giant mahua trees (over 100 feet high) with their buttress roots - a reminder of what most of the Andaman's coastal rainforest once looked like. Barefoot at Havelock, a highly commended eco-lodge is hidden in a little replanted forest at the end of a winding path through the trees.

Beach No. 7 is all what its been made out to be. Its two miles of a gradual crescent shaped cove with pristine white soft sand fronted by a warm, gradually sloping sandy seafloor that has no rocks, gentle waves, and perfect for swimming with the family. In the background, a blanket of tropical coastal rainforest as far as the eye can see - no manmade construction, no beach umbrellas and sunbeds, no touts, no tourists! All around Havelock Island are fringing coral reefs bursting with marine life, ideal for snorkelling trips. There are thick mangrove forests and creeks that run through the island, making for dreamy kayaking trips. Once you reach Havelock, you'll want to take off your watch, lose your phone, and surrender to nature!

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